First of all MASSIVE thanks to Slowboi Racing for helping me replace the caster bushings. I would not be able to do this without the help.
As usual - do this at your own risk; use this as a guide and if you're going to follow through do it in the same order as described here. There are many ways of getting this done, described here is a way that works from my perspective and those who helped me achieve this task.
Removing the front lower arm is quite easy.
Removing and installing the caster bushing is pretty much impossible if you don't have a press (we used to 20 ton press), and even if you do if it's your first time doing it it's very difficult and there are many ways of screwing this up.
Only replace your bushings if you can get help or have the equipment for it. Take your time and be careful not to damage or cease anything up or you will be out time and money. If you are planning on doing it without a press, by yourself, and for the first time - DON'T. Take it to a shop and pay someone to do it (this is my opinion)!
Removing the front lower control arm:
Before anything else jack the front of the car up and remove your wheel/wheels.
1. Remove the two bolts from the "stabilizer bar" that links the sway bar to the lower arm. Once you do that you should be able to twist the end link out of the way (upwards, for example).
2. Remove the two bolts that hold the bushing assembly to the frame. You can leave the bushing in and take it out later, you will likely want to use an impact tool on the bolt that holds the bushing to the lower arm if you're going to be taking the bushing out.
Notice this picture is with my new bushings installed, the original ones will not have the washers on them.
3. Remove the other bolt that's on the inner most side of the control arm.
4. Remove the bolt that links the arm to the knuckle. Once you get that out the coupling will be able to slide out of the knuckle, you might need to give it a light tap with a rubber mallet or whatever other tool you wanna use (there are tool specifically made to separate these types of joints) just don't damage anything (you can tap the arm and it should start sliding out, use force if necessary just be careful). FYI installation is essentially the same thing backwards so you will want to give it some taps from the bottom to get it back it.
The arrow shows where the link will separate.
Factually if you replaced your caster bushing for one with more offset (as I did) you might have a harder time getting it all back together. Put it together in this order (referring to the above steps, naturally installing instead of removing):
3, 2, 4, 1.
Replacing the caster bushing:
I replaced my caster bushings for racing purposes and I used the Whiteline Racing bushings from an eBay distributor. The item code is KCA429 and the kit comes with all the bushing parts you will need (no replacement nuts however, so watch your nuts :P).
I will say this again... I couldn't have done it without the help from Slowboi Racing and it wasn't their first time either - it was quite a process however so this is really a difficult task even with proper tools and equipment.
1. Remove the bolt that secures the bushing to the control arm. It will be tight, you might want to use an impact tool. Thereafter the bushing should slide off the arm.
2. You will need to break the rubber portion of the bushing away from the metal sleeve. Use a press to press it out until it breaks off. The method is really at your discretion really but you want to end up with this part separate from the sleeve:
3. Now you will want to cut out the sleeve from the housing. Again this is at your own discretion how you do it but the most important thing here is not to cause any (or as minimal as possible) damage to the housing otherwise pressing the new bushing it may result in total failure (like it getting stuck beyond repair). Cut the sleeve just enough to be able to start bending it to it's inside and keep doing that until you can bend it enough for it to slide out of the housing.
4. You want a smooth surface for the new bushing to go into so use some 150 grit (or coarser) sand paper. Inspect the surface with your fingers - essentially you don't want anything sticking out of the surface because that will get in a way of the new sleeve and you might get the thing completely ceased up which will end up in a garbage can like the old bushing did.
5. Install the bushing into the housing and the inner sleeve into the bushing (again using the press or whatever other method - just be patient and don't F* it up; no pressure).
What we are doing here with this one is maximizing on the caster we can get out of these bushings so you want the "skinny" side of the rubber part on the inner most side of the sleeve (i.e. pointing towards the middle inside line of the car) on a level (horizontal) plane.
6. Install the bolt (you can probably lose the original tiny washer at this point) and that's that!
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